Rain

On 26 Dec 2006, it rained non-stop in most parts of Japan for a period of more than 24 hours. It started the night when we arrived at Nikko, and drenched us to the night after. The sun did not appear at all. This was freakish because it was beautifully sunny the day before. Most Japanese TV channels featured talks over the phenomena that evening. Learned men assessed that it was caused by currents caused by global warming.

We took every photo with the umbrella balanced above our heads with one hand. In between shots, we hid our cameras under the flap of our jackets. Even then, it got wet and mine became cranky a few times. Shots taken were not recorded onto the memory card, and had to be retaken, and I couldn't figure out whether it was due to the moisture or the cold or both. Water got into our shoes, and washed away all the sheen of Nikko's gold-covered architecture. It didn't help that we were made to take off our shoes when we enter the temples. Most of the stone steps were already wet, and the modest overhangs were scant help. We couldn't shoot upwards without getting our lens sprinkled with stray droplets.

There are over 14,000 large cedar (sugi) trees here. They, and the rivers, and the waterfalls, give the place its majestic character as much as its mausoluems and temples. I set the ISO to 1600 so that the shutter will snap faster. Even then, the scenes are flattened and softened, as if draped over with a glistening veil. But underneath all this, Nikko was still alluring, revealing itself layer by layer, like a woman undressing, encouraging further discoveries. The rain creates the illusion of mists and hides away Nikko's worst excesses and gaudiness. Some find the riot of Nikko's colours offensively counter to the Japanese style of restrain and abstraction. Perhaps that is why it was only as recent as 1999 that the place was accorded World Heritage status. Well, under the steady drizzle, it all appeared more decent.

The next day, the sun was out in full blast again, and the vapours came off the cedar barks as if the tree was on fire. The shadows were black again. And Nikko was ready for the next few busloads of tourists...

Chup